The Sustainable Cape Wool Standard is one of four wool standards that received a mark of approval from the global animal welfare organisation Four Paws in a new report aimed at guiding fashion houses towards more ethical use of animal-derived products in clothing.
By Fredalette Uys
Deon Saayman, CEO of Cape Wools SA, says the development is extremely positive for the industry and for all the work that went into the process. “The report reaches major brands and supports the path we’ve taken to give producers options and establish a South African-driven standard.”
Of the 12 standards Four Paws reviewed, eight currently meet – or are committed to meeting – the organisation’s “foundational criteria”: four wool production standards (Sustainable Cape Wool Standard, Responsible Wool Standard, ZQ and NATIVA), the Responsible Mohair Standard, the Responsible Alpaca Standard, the Good Cashmere Standard and the Sustainable Fibre Alliance.
The report includes certification and assurance schemes involving products from animals such as sheep, alpacas, cashmere goats and Angora goats, as well as ducks and geese used for down – all part of the supply chains for clothing and textiles.
Also read: Major fashion retailer H&M drives regenerative wool revolution in Drakensberg
Four Paws Takes a Firm Stance on Animal Welfare
Four Paws says the purpose of the report is to highlight opportunities and challenges within supply chains that use animal-derived materials, and to help fashion brands identify gaps in animal welfare, better understand the market environment, make informed choices and drive improvements.
The organisation takes a firm stance on animal welfare and supports the fashion industry in campaigns against cruel practices, such as the use of fur and the mulesing of lambs (the removal of skin folds without anaesthetic).
“Although standards can play an important role in mitigating animal welfare risks, it is also important to acknowledge that no standard can guarantee good welfare with complete certainty,” the report states.
According to Four Paws, brands should use the strongest available standard as a baseline when sourcing animal-derived materials – but it also cautions that there is room for improvement across all standards, and that both standard owners and brands must take further action to better protect animals within their supply chains.
This report does not provide a comprehensive review of all animal welfare needs that should be addressed within each standard. Instead, it focuses on key issues that span the Five Domains of animal welfare: nutrition, environment, health, behavioural interactions and mental state.
The standards were evaluated against 19 criteria – 8 considered foundational criteria and 11 addressing spotlight issues recommended as current industry priorities.
Also read: Why fasting sheep before shearing makes sense
Choose Clothing Carefully
Through its Wear it Kind programme, Four Paws aims to improve the welfare of animals used in textile production by supporting research, evidence-based policy development and campaigns that address the most serious welfare challenges in the fashion industry.
According to the organisation, only about 5% of the global supply of sheep wool supply is currently certified to animal welfare in textile standards. Wool remains the most widely used animal fibre in the fashion sector.
South Africa is currently the leading supplier of sustainably certified wool globally. The mulesing procedure, which is still widely practised in Australia, is prohibited here.
In a separate report, Four Paws criticised the fashion industry for its failure to demonstrate how it is addressing the mulesing issue, stating that two-thirds of the sector is not taking sufficient action against the practice. Read the full report here.
